Dr. Moeller's Corner Dr. Christopher Moeller

Q. What is the difference between hot and cold wax?

A. Hot wax is meant to be maintained at just above body temperature so that it can be easily spread in a thin layer on the skin. As the wax cools, it hardens, trapping the hair in the wax. When the wax is pulled off, it removes the hair by the roots, leaving smooth skin. A hot-wax treatment is best left to a professional.

A cold-wax treatment is available in precoated strips, which can be pressed directly onto clean, dry skin. The hair sticks to the wax and is then removed as the strip is pulled off. Also known as Persian waxing, cold-wax kits are available for home use.

Q. Should I shave the hair before my waxing appointment?

A. No. The hair to be removed needs to be about ¼” long for body hair and about 1/8” for eyebrows and hair on the ears. The wax must have something to grip onto in order for it to do its job. If you have very long hair that will be removed (e.g., men’s or women’s genital area or men’s chest hair) you can clip it shorter to within the recommended lengths. Make sure to clean the area to be waxed before your appointment.

Q. I’ve heard about several problems that can occur after a waxing session, such as ingrown hairs and pimples. What else can I expect and what can I do to get the best results?

A. The goal of waxing is to remove the entire hair from the follicle, but the hair often breaks off at or below the surface of the skin. This can lead to ingrown hairs — hair that grows under the skin, forming a bump. Pimples can occur due to the skin being more susceptible to bacteria. Although no method is foolproof, you can take steps to minimize the occurrence of ingrown hairs and post-wax pimples:

  • Lightly exfoliate the area to be waxed before your session, as well as a day afterward. Continue to exfoliate every few days after the waxing to keep dead skin cells out of the follicle. This helps the new hair grow upward instead of back into the skin, and it keeps bacteria at bay.
  • Wear loose-fitting clothes. Tight clothes can irritate the freshly waxed area, as well as inhibiting the upward direction of new hair growth.
  • Avoid exercise for 24 hours. Excess sweat can irritate the skin.
  • Keep the skin clean. Apply witch hazel, which acts as a mild astringent and soothes irritated or inflamed skin.
  • Keep hands away from the newly smooth skin. Easier said than done, this is one of the most effective ways of preventing acne breakouts. Every touch to a freshly waxed area introduces new bacteria; keep fingers and nails away for pimple-free skin.
  • Leave it alone. If you do get a pimple, do not squeeze it. Popping a pimple spreads the bacteria, encouraging more acne, and it can scar the skin. Apply tea tree oil (a natural astringent) or an acne-zapping product.
Minimize the effects of (too much) fun in the summer sun.

Removing hair from the skin via waxing is an age-old regimen that dates back to the ancient Egyptians. A smooth, hairless body was the standard of beauty, and the Greeks carried on the tradition. Since then, women have used some form of waxing to remove unwanted hair. Today, men and women alike are waxing to get smooth skin.

Benefits and Drawbacks

When considering removing unwanted hair, waxing has benefits over other methods:

  • Large amounts of hair can be removed at one time.
  • The results last longer (two to eight weeks).
  • Over time, waxing can reduce or soften hair growth.

An added benefit of removing hair, no matter the method, is that bared skin makes it easier to see any skin abnormalities. Whether it’s a mole that has changed shape or color or a new lesion on the skin, early detection is key to a positive prognosis.

Waxing does have a few drawbacks. They pain involved varies on the location of the removal, as well as the pain tolerance of the individual. It can be quite uncomfortable, but it is short-lived. Ingrown hairs and red bumps can occur after treatment. Exfoliating the affected area can help.

Some physicians recommend avoiding waxing for those with diabetes, varicose veins or poor circulation, since they are more susceptible to infection. Waxing should never be performed on irritated or sunburned skin.

Types of Waxing

While there are home hair removal kits available, they are not viable options for every desired location. A licensed cosmetologist or esthetician can perform the more challenging types of removal. Hair can be removed from virtually every part of the body:

  • Eyebrows
  • Lips
  • Face (cheeks, chin, jawline)
  • Arms and underarms
  • Chest
  • Back
  • Abdomen
  • Bikini area
  • Legs
  • Feet

Methods

Traditional wax &ndash: The cosmetologist or esthetician spreads warmed wax in the direction of the hair growth and covers it with a thin cloth. The hair becomes imbedded in the wax; when the wax cools, the cloth and wax are quickly pulled off in the opposite direction of the hair growth. Any remaining wax must be peeled off.

Sugar wax &ndash: Similar to the traditional version, a sugar wax uses a sugary substance, about the consistency of caramel, instead of wax. The method and results are the same; the difference is in the cleanup. Since sugar is water-soluble, any remaining residue simply washes off.

After Treatment

After any waxing session, it is important to care for the treated skin. To minimize the risk of irritation and ingrown hairs, do not wear tight-fitting clothing, and make sure to exfoliate the skin 24 to 48 hours after the session to prevent buildup of dead skin cells. Do not expose newly waxed areas to the sun for at least 48 hours after treatment. Sunscreen is also recommend to protect the skin.

For women, timing might be the key to a more-comfortable waxing experience. Since skin tends to be more sensitive right before and right after a menstrual cycle, try to avoid scheduling waxing sessions during those days.

For both sexes, taking two ibuprofen an hour before the session is recommended. Perhaps the best advice (though a little tongue in cheek) would be to simply grin and bare it.